The Oscars of Watchmaking Just Dropped Their 2025 Winners
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) often hailed as the Oscars of Watchmaking has once again crowned the most extraordinary timepieces of the year. Hosted at the iconic Bâtiment des Forces Motrices in Geneva, the 2025 edition celebrated heritage maisons, daring independents, groundbreaking complications, and the unmatched craftsmanship that defines haute horlogerie.
With more than 15 categories, a 29-member expert jury, and a year full of innovative launches, the competition was fierce. But this year also marked a special moment: the long-awaited return of Urban JĂĽrgensen, whose revival instantly became one of the event’s biggest highlights.
Jewelry Watch Dior La D de Dior Buisson Couture
Dior brought haute couture to the wrist.
The Buisson Couture is a floral, gem-set masterpiece where telling time becomes secondary to admiring the craftsmanship. A wearable work of art inspired by Monsieur Dior’s passion for gardens.
Iconic Watch Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
The word iconic fits perfectly.
AP’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Sand Gold powered by the new Calibre 7138 won for modernizing the Genta classic while staying true to its roots. A milestone release during AP’s 150th anniversary.
Ladies’ Watch Prize GĂ©rald Genta Oursine
A dazzling, artistic rebirth stole the show in the women’s category.
The GĂ©rald Genta Oursine, a revival of a 1994 creation originally designed for Genta’s wife, triumphed for its playful opulence. With polished fire opals on a matte yellow-gold case and a design inspired by sea urchins, it represents feminine extravagance at its finest.
Tourbillon Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Ultra-thin and ultra-impressive.
Bulgari continues its dominance in the slim-watch segment with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Its featherlight architecture and flying tourbillon demonstrate just how far innovation can push mechanical boundaries.
Aiguille d’Or Breguet Classique Souscription
Often compared to the “Best Picture” award at the Oscars, the Aiguille d’Or represents the highest honor of the night.
This year, the crown went to Breguet for its Classique Souscription, a 40 mm ode to purity and timeless elegance.
The single-handed design pays tribute to the earliest subscription watches crafted by Abraham-Louis Breguet, blending historic DNA with contemporary finesse. A well-deserved win for a maison that continues to define classical watchmaking.
Artistic Crafts Voutilainen 28GML Souyou
Kari Voutilainen continues to redefine watchmaking artistry.
The 28GML Souyou features an extraordinary dial crafted with Japanese lacquer, seashell fragments, and gold, requiring over 1,000 hours of work. An ode to global craftsmanship.
Ladies’ Complication Chopard Imperiale Four Seasons
Chopard turned poetic storytelling into mechanical mastery with the Imperiale Four Seasons.
The watch features an artistic dial with a rotating disc that completes one full cycle in 365 days, symbolizing the changing seasons. It’s an exquisite example of haute joaillerie meeting horological complications.
Time-Only Watch Daniel Roth Extra Plat
Minimalism, refinement, and pure watchmaking Daniel Roth’s Extra Plat epitomizes all three.
Hand-finished in rose gold with the maison’s signature case architecture, it represented mastery in the “less is more” approach to horology.
Men’s Watch Prize Urban JĂĽrgensen UJ-2
One of the most emotional wins of the night.
Urban JĂĽrgensen’s revival was a major storyline for 2025, and the UJ-2 didn’t disappoint. Featuring a double-wheel natural escapement and an aesthetic rooted in its 250-year heritage, this watch symbolises the brand’s bold leap into its next chapter.
Men’s Complication Bovet RĂ©cital 30
Bovet delivered a poetic take on world-time.
With a selectively adjustable timezone display, vivid color inspirations, and a titanium case housing a beautifully complex dial layout, the RĂ©cital 30 emerged as a standout among mechanical storytellers.
Mechanical Exception Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante
Greubel Forsey introduced nanomechanics to haute horlogerie.
The Nano Foudroyante packs energy control at the nanojoule level into a surprisingly small 37.9 mm case. It’s not just a watch it’s a technological breakthrough.
Chronograph Angelus Chronogrape Télémetre
A small case with huge vintage charisma.
At 37 mm, the Angelus Télémetre brings back mid-century design through a beautifully grained dial, recessed subdials, and a hand-wound A5000 calibre. Pure retro magic
Sports Watch Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF
Chopard reinvented its Alpine Eagle line with a stealthy twist.
Crafted from ceramicized titanium and powered by a high-frequency movement, this version is lighter, bolder, and more modern than ever earning its spot as a true sports-luxury contender.
Chronometry Prize Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 35
A tribute to Zenith’s origins.
The G.F.J. Calibre 35 honors founder Georges Favre-Jacot through a watch that combines platinum, lapis lazuli, guilloché, and mother-of-pearl for a blend of accuracy and artistry.
Petite Aiguille M.A.D.2 Green
Max BĂĽsser’s M.A.D Editions once again democratized high creativity.
The M.A.D.2 Green, a raffle-based release, proved that innovative watchmaking doesn’t always need a six-figure price tag.
Final Thoughts: A Future-Driven Year for Haute Horlogerie
GPHG 2025 wasn’t just a showcase of luxury, it was a celebration of innovation, emotion, craftsmanship, and heritage.
From history-steeped maisons like Breguet and Zenith to avant-garde disruptors like Greubel Forsey and M.A.D Editions, this year's awards highlighted a fascinating balance between tradition and evolution.
Whether you’re a collector, enthusiast, or luxury connoisseur, the 2025 winners prove one thing:
👉 Watchmaking is entering a future where artistry and innovation walk hand in hand aaand the journey is more exciting than ever.
Stay tuned and follow Jewelry Gossip for more glittering updates and luxury watch scoops!
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